Roma!

A sacrificial altar in the middle of Campus Marcius, where gladiators once trained.


My street, via Luigi Santini.


One of Bernini's Moor fountains on Piazza Navona.



I'm not making it up, this is my name on a (Roman? Early Christian?) fragment in the portico of San Silvestro. What could it mean?? The photo on the left doesn't look like much, but it is what's left of the octaganal room in the Domus Aurea (Golden House) of Nero.



The angel on top of the Castel, right before a lightning storm. The fountain of Piazza (traffic circle) della Repubblica. The statues are of tritons wrestling niads. They ap[parently looked like they were having too much fun, so the fountain caused a bit of a scandal.




Stunning views from Castel Sant'Angelo.



Two examples of Borromini's wonderfully unique Baroque style: San Carlino and the ministry of propaganda (really, that's what it's called). Note the convex/concave play of both facades.



Just a random courtyard in my neghborhood in Trastevere. Pretty sweet, no? And this is one of the eight elaborate Barberini coat of arms (with the telltale bees) designed by Bellini, which line the baldacchino of the papal altar in St. Peter's. The story goes that Urban VIII commissioned it as a thank offering for a niece who almost died in childbirth. Beneath the scroll is a woman's face, in various expressions of pain. In the final one, there's a laughing child.


The twin churches of Piazza del Popolo, taken from the obelisk in the middle of the square, where I would sit, write, listen to the fountains, and gaze. Sigh....


The ruins of the temple to Fortune in Our Present Day (Caesar was murdered nearby), and the head of the statue of the goddess herself, found in the ruins. Deh! Nasconditi, o Virtù! (from Poppea...)



The unexpected epitaph on Keats' grave, and a weeping angel in the Protestant cemetery.


A dramatic allegory of the faith on the tomb of St. Ignatius. And a street near Piazza Navona, note the window frames now buried under street level!


This medieval fresco in Santa Saba depicts the story of St. Nicholas. On hearing a poor man (lower corner) lament that he had no dowry for his 3 daughters, Nicholas tossed a bag of money through their window. And thus the holiday shopping season was born.


The 2-hour line to get into the Vatican Museums (a portion), and the enormous river god (also a portion) who lives inside, along with just a few other works of art.



Women in Black Against War. They're international, I think they assemble in front of the library in New York as well. I went up to them with mom and introduced ourselves as "quacchere" (Quakers). They seemed please to meet us!


A sneaky mosaic!


A fragment from what must have been an enormous statue (the figure is unidentified) and just a small part of a sepulchre frieze, depicting a Roman triumph over the barbarians.


The weird-looking lunch they gave me on my flight to Vienna. Watch for it on airlinemeals.net!


A statue of saint Istvan (Stephen), the church, and cousin Mike in downtown Köszeg, Hungary.


The tallest obelisk in Rome, outside of San Giovanni. Rome has more obelisks then Egypt-I'm so proud! A classic cupid statue as well.


The interior of the Colosseum..... and the so-called Square Colosseum of Mussolini's time. The inscription reads: "A nation of poets, artists, heroes, saints, thinkers, scientists, navigators, and transcenders." Ma dai!



This modern church was built to be Mussolini's tomb, had he not been hanged and dismembered by that nation of poets, artists, heroes, etc. The strong wall separating the forum of Augustus from the fire-prone suburra, where the classic Roman hoi polloi lived.


Part of a Renaissance facade along the elegant Via Giulia. I wonder which victims this sign refers to.


An elaborate mosaic floor and ruins of a ninfeo at emporer Hadrian's Villa, his country retreat in nearby Tivoli.


Porta San Sebastiano, leading out to the Via Appia. An angel etched into the porta's travertine.


Basalt slabs on the Via Appia Antica (note the wagon grooves), and cypresses along the way.


Bougainvillea blooms.


The Piazza di Pietra (stone). The Palatine with the Circus Maximus (it's just
that grassy bit in front.)

Cast of Characters, in order of appearance

Here they are, some of the friends I made and people I knew in Rome...

Chie the Indescribable

Shown here holding her nephew Kaito, with her sister Kayo, who took me to the beach during my first week in Rome. Ever-smiling, upbeat, and caring, Chie is one in a million. We ended up seeing each other fairly frequently, and I hope to visit her someday in Tokyo - speaking Italian together!

Rebecca the Giggler

She may look like a serious Scotsman, but we shared many a laugh and always enjoyed comparing stories about those nutty Roman ways. This picture was taken from the Pincio gardens in the Villa Borgehese, overlooking the Piazza del Popolo. I spent many a dreamy afternoon sitting right in front of that obelisk, listening to the fountains and gazing at the twin churches, one of which is visible over Chie's shoulder. St. Peter's is the dome on the right.

Our class picture at ItaliaIdea. Our capable teacher Costanza is in the turquoise. A healthy mix of Japanese and Americans, a Spaniard, a German, and a Pole- you guess who's who! And yes, all women.

Alex the Aristocrat, Helena the Lovely, Sarah the Spritely
In front of the Villa Dora Pamhilij in the sprawling park of the same name. I teased Alex the posh Brit for wearing a ring with his coat of arms, until I realized that the English actually have coats of arms, unlike us in the colonies. Helena, my Finnish friend who looks more Italian than some Sicilians, was a frequent dinner and sightseeing companion. Sarah became my confidant (on our various adventures with men...), beach pal, girls' night, and hot-day companion, when we crept from one air-conditioned space to another.

Helena among the candy flowers at La Palma gelateria. They also had lollipops with images of the pope- pope on a pop?

Me and Sarah in front of the Colliseum, the day before I left. After this picture, she walked me down the pine-lined street towards the Circus Maximus. We both looked over our shoulders and waved as we parted.

Corinna the Generous (standing) and Natalie the Genius (in orange)

I didn't know Fabrizio and Marzia very well, so they don't get titles! I met Corinna through her roommate, a friend of mine, who invited me over during my first few days in Rome. Natalie was making dinner- she's French, getting her PhD in medieval art, and cooks like a goddess. Corinna brought me to her choir, which I sang in for a month and met more people. She also is quite a cook, and was kind enough to invite me back for another dinner at their place! This picture was taken at Marzia's beach house, where I was spoiled with spaghetti con vongole, white wine, prosciutto with melon, not to mention a trip to the beach. Afterwards, Corinna broke out sheet music and we - about 10 people in total - gathered round to read through Bach cantatas! They sang everything they could remember from choir, then we branched out to Beatles tunes and more, singing and lounging until evening.

Paolo the Elegant

Another choir member, Paolo often accompanied me to concerts and gave me a personalized walking tour of the city. This picture was taken from the top of the Campidoglio - see the rainstorm brewing in the background? This photo is perhaps the one exception, but Paolo was always impeccably dressed. On my second to last night we had a bite to eat along the Tiber, where we shared cannoli and cassata siciliana, which tragically didn't make it to the US with the Italian immigrants of yore. It's so good it makes you want to cry. When I suggested an American hug goodbye, instead of a dainty Italian kiss, he observed that American hugs seem to be rather pathetic, at least from what he's seen in movies. He set me straight with a big Italian bear hug!

Andrea the Charming

Look at him, isn't he charming? I spent many pleasant afternoons with Andrea (accent on the second syllable, per favore), having lunch on this beautiful balcony in the building where he has the fortune to be employed. Built to house Mussolini's Africa administration, it's now the UN's Food and Agriculture Organization, or la FAO as the Italians say. These pictures don't begin to do justice to the spectacular view! My favorite place in all of Rome, or at least in my top 5. St. Peter's is seen in the top picture over Andrea's shoulder; in the bottom we have the Palatine, Circus Maximus between us, and that small dot is the balloon in the Villa Borghese. Andrea somehow managed to take very long lunches, and we would spend the time finding solutions to world problems and laughing at our language mistakes. La FAO is a fascinating little island of internationalism, and the best part: they serve decent sushi, although it slightly horrified Andrea when I ordered it. He showed me some hidden parts of Rome, and was the very last person I said goodbye to on my very last night.

Carla the Ambitious

Look at that face (hers, not mine). Carla's studied a bunch of languages, works for a place that has offices all over the world, and very much wants to move overseas. I have no doubt that she'll be able to do it. My Italian was just starting to come together when we first met for language exhange; I wish we could have seen each other more often. We saw a very disturbing movie at the outdoor cinema on the Tiber Island, and she invited me along twice on group outings. A native Roman and lover of the city, she's not so thrilled with the traffic, smog, and chaos. But one evening when we were walking in Trastevere, having sampled a grattacheca, (or shaved ice, which is actually hard to come by), she told me the name of the summer breeze that was blowing (they all have names in Rome), with the pride a New Yorker has in showing someone the Brooklyn Bridge. "Senti?" She said, brown eyes sparkling. "Questo è il sentito di Roma!"

Katrin the Queen

I wouldn't make it up, that's her title on her email address. Katrin and I met at my local watering hole in Trastev, where I was waiting for a friend who took his time showing up, and she was with fellow artists at their monthly gathering. Fortunate encounter! We ended up going to Hadrian's villa at Tivoli together, and to Ostia Antica, Rome's nearby answer to Pompeii. This photo is from the theater at Ostia, one of the many dramatic ruins of the colony. She also invited me to her studio show with other artists on year-long scholarships in Rome (lucky devils), and we went to some outdoor concerts together and a beer and sausage joint afterwards. That gentleman friend from the party tried to befriend her too, and Katrin and I had fun describing to each other exactly how we eventually blew him off! Full of German seriousness and good nature, Katrin was always good company.

Isabel the International

I signed up for a continuing ed course of tours through papal villas, and found myself in a "class" of retirees. And Isabel. Afterwards, she (in blue) and her friend Abru (who was just visiting Rome) were off to the Villa d'Este in Tivoli, a wonderland Renaissance palace known for exquisitely beautiful gardens with dramatic fountains. "Wanna come?" said Isabel. I didn't hesitate! The day was magical. A long bus ride out, but a leisurely afternoon at the villa, where we must have seen four different couples getting married against the backdrop of one amazing fountain after another; here we are in front of the dragon fountain. The day we were there, several choirs were walking around giving informal concerts, and we spent some time indoors, gazing up at the richly painted ceilings and listening to the music. Isabel, from Spain, and Abru, from Turkey, know each other from an international studies program that brought them to Bologna and Washington DC. Isabel works in Rome (in English!) but unfortunately had to travel alot while I was there. We did have other outings in town though, and practiced our Italian together. (Hers is better than mine....)

Here I am in front of a wall of honeysuckle in the garden.

Life at the Café....

Romolo (as in Romulus, founder of Rome!), Chie, and Simone at the Elenbar, around the corner from the language school. The cutest café in town! The whole school would pile in there for a coffee break during class. This might be my favorite picture of all. Can't I just jump back in and finish my spremuta on the counter?

Davide, son of Romolo, at the Elenbar with my favorite breakfast: one of their freshly made fruit tarts and a cappuccino, of course. Note the travertine counter. A bar in Italy is what we would call a café, and the system works a little differently than it does here. You will not get a paper cup or plate unless you ask for it, and you can expect to drink your coffee standing up, as opposed to walking out the door as we do it. This is fine, as they serve you what we would call espresso, and it takes a second to drink. If you ask, you can have a highly sweetened but delicious glass of fruit juice too; my favorite was blueberry. Bars ring with the clatter of the clerks lining up the saucers and cups on the counter. If you're lucky, you'll be served by as animated a chap as Davide, who chatted with regulars and did a little boogie as he tapped down the coffee and steamed the milk.

Simone, Chie, Becky, Emiko (another student), and I after lunch near the Spanish steps.

Mom the International Woman of Travel

On a brightly painted bench at a rustic hotel in Köszeg, Hungary.....

....and in the shot that everyone in the world has from their trip to Rome! Yes, that's the Trevi fountain. We somehow managed to find a spot free from tourists- I look like I'm saying "did you take it?" to the kid I asked to take the picture.

Cinzia the Amazing

She writes novels, teaches ballet, and translates and teaches Japanese - amazing! Her eye makeup was also always exquisitely done! Cinzia (don't forget, 'ci' gets a 'ch' in Italian) showed me around her lovely neighborhood known as l'EUR, which was to be a community of the future under fascism but is now simply a leafy, peaceful neighborhood with great shopping. She kindly invited me over to lunch, and we met a few times for language exchange and laughs (although we did end up speaking mostly Italian...) Her husband Giovanni (no relation to the kids below!) is also a sweetheart, and I hope to see the two of them again soon- either here or there!

Giovanni the Horrible, Francesco the Pain in the Ass

Although I was happy to have a little cash from babysitting, I spent one too many afternoons with these barbarians. Francesco (Ciaci) had his sweet moments, but Giovanni (Giogiò) would call me names and hit me. Being with children improves your vocabulary, but I didn't appreciate learning cacca di cacca, puzza di cavallo, and caccone. I would walk in and say 'Ciao Giogiò!' and he would make a face and scream 'No!' The parents wanted them to hear some English, the only problem was that they didn't understand English. I was just some babbling skyscraper that kept them away from their babbo, who stayed upstairs furtively trying to work. Though one cute moment came when Francesco, wanting me to pick him up, looked at me and said "tirami su!" I looked down and said "panna cotta!" He didn't get it. Remember Giovanni's face; you'll see it again in 18 years in Italian tabloids, after he's gone crazy and committed some unspeakable crime.

Carla the Fabulous

Gorgeous, hilarious, and fun-loving, Carla was sadly my roommate for only my last 10 days. But we did have some adventures together, including this day on the Via Appia Antica, which is more amazing and evocative of ancient times than I could have ever imagined. Carla is pictured on a lookout point by the road with the ruins of the Villa Quintili in the distance. She was not only fun to be with, but when we went out together, the guys would look at her instead of me- thanks Carla! Maybe I will come down to Australia to visit her someday...

And your host, in the courtyard of St. Paul's.

Duck butts in the pond of the Villa Dora Pamphilij.

More Pics of Interest to Early Music Folks (and others!)

Across the Tiber, on the site where an ancient Roman villa with exquisite frescoes was discovered, sits the Palazzino Farnese, known as la Farnesina. Built between 1506 and 1510 by Baldassarre Peruzzi for Agostino Chigi (a wealthy Sienese banker who financed several popes), this elegant home and garden was the scene for numerous banquets and festivities of the Renaissance glitterati. Below are some of the lush frescoes from the Loggia of Psyche in the main entrance hall. Raphael drew the overall scheme, but Giulio Romano, Francesco Penni, Raffaellino del Colle, and Giovanni da Udine executed the work.

Psyche and Zeus.

Marriage of Psyche and Cupid (fragment).

Apollo! Note the squash in the upper right, ahem...

Blurry overview. The coat of arms in the center is a combination of Chigi's and Leo X's, a rare example.

Nerone, who is kept in a museum that is separate and far away from the one housing...

Ottavia (note the hair style).

The Early Music Nerd Corner

Here are the pictures I furtively took in Rome's excellent museum of historic instruments. Sorry the focus and angles aren't too hot, photography isn't allowed, and the staff kept a watchful eye on me!

Various cornetti and flutes.

L'arpa Barberini, 17th cent.

German harpsichord, 1537.

Chitarrone in the center, but I can't quite remember the other two. Any ideas?

Chitarrone, lute, and cornetti, 17th cent.

19th century Neapolitan street organ. What stories could it tell?

Various 19th century trumpets

A cimbasso; it appears to be shaped like a bassoon with a tuba mouthpiece.

Serpents! Mozart and Mendelssohn wrote for these oddball brass/woodwind hybrids.

Military bugles, 19th/20th centuries.

A beautifully painted 18th century spinet.

sheesh

After not writing here for nearly 3 weeks, my mind just feels tangled, spilling over with thoughts and cluttered with all the little scenes I wanted to get down. It took a while to get internet access at home, but now the wireless connection is letting me down, giving me the claustrophobia I get nowadays when I can't Google and email instantly. I never thought I would be such a computer hound, but maybe it's the access to communications and knowledge that I miss. I hope to resolve the problem soon, so I can finally post more photos from Rome and maybe use my PC as a phone.

But meanwhile, everyone has been asking me: how's it going? And I suppose, in many ways, just fine. It's a different schedule than I've ever had before, and I'm still getting used to it. What a thrill to have stuff to put into my PalmPilot! It used to be just work and practice and the weekly lesson or very occasional rehearsal, but now I have classes and a regular group to rehearse with and music to learn for school, auditions, and my demanding church position (which will sadly end in October. Too bad, the music is great, and the pay covers rent).

Yet, and I suppose I had an inkling of this before I started, grad school is not the Shangrila I had imagined it to be when I was languishing at my full-time office jobs. I have way too much spare time, for one. If I didn't have a part-time job, I would be scampering for something to do. I'm also at a loss as to how I'm supposed to be making the connections I thought you were supposed to be able to make in advanced degrees. Yes, I've met most everyone in my small department, but how deep those contacts will run (we just see each other in class) and what they'll lead to is a little beyond my imagination.

But, there's the entertaining dating scene to keep me occupied. Dates are incredibly boring. I hate the thought of regurgitating my personal information for the next Mike/Dave/Rob/Chris/Brian/Steve- whatever. What do you do, where are you from, where do you live, what do you like to do? I should just hand them a fact sheet. But the perk, of course, is the free food. I've talked with friends about this, and we can't come to a conclusion: why do guys still have to pay for dates? In an age when women are expected to be self-sufficient and prize they're independence, a date is not really a date unless the guy picks up the tab. She could be a lawyer, he could be a non-profit administrative assistant. Well, as a student, I say cool! I'm looking at my dating life as at least a meal ticket, crass as that may be. Listen, when you've got a tab of $9,000 a semester to face, you're not exactly eating lobsters. (An aside, my favorite comfort meal, in lean times and flush, is a total pantry creation: chick peas with cumin cooked with onion and a little tomato sauce, served with brown rice. But it's not long before you get sick of that....)

So I turn to my menfolk for a taste of the gourmet. When I was looking for apartments a few weeks ago, one potential roommate asked me out. Um, okay, but I'm glad I didn't take that place!! I was treated to lamb kabobs, and conversation so out of sync that I should have brought a book. It was worth it. But, of course, the whole point is that maybe I might actually find some companionship out there eventually.

It's getting cold up here already. Winter is coming with his days of darkness and lethargia. I'll go to sleep soon, taking another sip of red wine and a bit of dark chocolate. But I would prefer a kiss.